That’s The Same Roseau River? (Part I of 3) by Arlington James

Roseau River in a calm mode

Dominica was once referred to as the “Land of Many Rivers” among the smaller Caribbean islands, boasting some 365 “rivers” – and many more during periods of extended, high-intensity rainfall. One of our best known permanent water courses is the Roseau River, one of the island’s longest, and the largest in the Nature Island’s south-western district.

Roseau River usually meanders peacefully and placidly, almost unassumingly, from the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, through the Roseau Valley and  down to the Caribbean Sea on the island’s South-West Coast.

However, from time to time all attention turns to that river which may have given some of us a scare, destroyed infrastructure or even claimed human lives, etc.

But what do we know, or remember, about the Roseau River?

Well, that’s the river that bears the same name as Dominica’s capital, Roseau, which was named by the French on account of the large amount of Roseau Reed, a.k.a. Wild Cane and “Wozo” (Gynerium sagitatta) that grew in association with the river.

That’s the same river that “connects” the villages/communities of Laudat, Trafalgar, Wotten Waven and Copt Hall to silver Lake, Bath Estate, Elmshall, Roseau and Pottersville?

That is the same Roseau River that provides habitat for a wide variety of freshwater fish such as freshwater eels or “zandji”, mullets, “lòsh”, “dòmé”, “koko”, and “mèy”, as well as crayfish, shrimp and crabs.

Yea, that’s the same Roseau River in which, during the “doukou season”, fishermen from Roseau and Pottersville would regularly catch “titiwi” to be used as bait to fish for “kawang”, “makiyo” and “kilouw” (jacks) from their “Bwa Flo” fishing rafts or “pwi-pwi”.

Young men setting bags to catch titiwi near mouth of Roseau River; catch to be used as fishing bait

It’s the same river whose estuary provides a foraging ground for local and migratory birds such as pelicans, magnificent frigate birds (“sizo”), royal terns, several sandpiper species, ruddy turnstone, egrets, herons (“kwabyé”) and the occasional wild duck (blue-winged teal), among other species.

Heron stalking its prey in Roseau River

That’s the same river which flows from our scenic Freshwater Lake, passing through the dramatic Ti-Tou Gorge, and on which you will find the very popular and touristic twin Trafalgar Falls.

Freshwater Lake, the “natural” source of the Roseau River; water from the lake is used for generating hydro-electricity

Is that the same Dominican river that is crossed over by so many bridges? Starting from Copt Hall we cross the Palm Grove Bridge at Copt Hall, the Elmshall Bridge (functional until 27th August 2015), the Bath Estate Bridge, the Bath Road or “Stadium” Bridge, the E.C. Loblack Bridge, the “New” West Bridge which was commissioned in May 2017, and the Dominica-China Friendship Bridge near the Roseau Market.

Roseau River is crossed by several bridges, including the Dominica-China Friendship Bridge. March 2013

There are other bridges over tributaries of the Roseau River at Wotten Waven, Trafalgar and Laudat. Note also that that river was once crossed by the longest suspension bridge (spring bridge) in the OECS; that bridge was located adjacent to the current Bath Estate Bridge.

That’s the same river that separates Roseau proper and Elmshall from Pottersville, Bath Estate, Savanne Park and Silver Lake.

That’s the same river that someone, many years ago, decided to call “Queen’s River”… Of all possible names? But who calls “Layvyè Wozo” Queen’s River? You?

Yea, that’s the same river that once provided water for crushing sugar cane harvested from plantations in the greater Roseau area (viz. site of the Botanic Gardens and Goodwill) and washing of L. Rose’s limes before crushing, and which today provides water for generating hydro-electricity at Laudat and Trafalgar.

Second entrance of tunnel through which water from the Roseau River was channelled from the “Sikwi” area down to a sugar mill at lower Goodwill

That’s the same river in which many mothers in the Roseau, Pottersville and even Newtown areas did the family laundry, and even “washed for people”. Many young men from those same communities also did their own laundry in that river.

That’s the same river that once had several popular, natural bathing pools and spots where youths spent hours frolicking, especially during school vacation time: Jèl Bouchouwi, Under Bridge, Anba Fanso, Basen Sikwi, Under Power, Champaign, Silver Lake and Palm Grove.

That’s the same river in which young children, while their mothers were doing the family laundry, collected “viyo”, which they cooked at home and ate as a snack.

That’s the same river that provided many “Jan Wozo” and “Jan Lòdbò” with water for their morning and evening baths, and young boys from Roseau and neighbouring communities with opportunities for river-tubing from Palm Grove down to near the river mouth.

That’s the same river that has given the city of Roseau its character as being the only city among the Caribbean islands with a usually clear, clean river flowing with moderate velocity right across town.

Yes, it’s the same river in which, before the arrival of flush toilets on the island, the “night soil” of the better-off residents of Roseau and environs would be disposed of, and in which the “pos” and pails of the less fortunate would be emptied and washed clean for the following night’s use.

About the Author:

ARLINGTON JAMES was raised in Roseau, Pottersville and Goodwill, and as such the Roseau river  became an essential part of his life. Arlington is a retired Forest Officer, and often carries around a camera in order to capture that rare photo-opportunity. Some of the subjects that he has photographed include the “dry” and empty Boiling Lake; a Kouwes snake nest; a boa constrictor swallowing an iguana; and the breaking of the Layou River Dam in 1997.
 
Arlington is the recipient of a national Services Medal of Honour Award, for his work in environmental education and research.

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25 Comments

  1. Jah-Musician
    June 27, 2021

    This is a very excellent article that evokes a profound feeling of nostalgia in my soul and makes me delightfully reminisce on my growing up days in Shop Lane, Goodwill, Dominica. A group of us would walk up to Silver Lake every Friday afternoon and midday on Saturdays to enjoy the River. As a student of DGS back then too, I would go up there by the CUM church on Rose street and go down the hill to cross the river to either pass through TECH WING or jump over Windsor park walk to STO-WAY into Windsor park especially when HARLEM & KENSBOROUGH was playing. Great days, great memories. The Roseau River was the Middle Passage (so to speak) for all these joyous activities.

    From what I have been hearing and seeing, it looks like de Roseau River Fineeeee Baaaat. I am hoping this is not the case.

  2. Kelzo
    March 14, 2018

    Mr. James,

    Thank you for the rich narrative.

    I can clearly remember riding my bicycle on the weekends with the rest of the boys and we would ride up to Palm Grove and Basket. Correct me if I am wrong but Basket is in Elms Hall. The area is called Basket because of the gabion wall which was constructed to prevent erosion of the land above the river bank.
    I appreciate the way you articulate the creole names of the locations and the different type of fish which was at one time common to the river at different locations.

    Very good stuff indeed!

  3. da for real
    March 13, 2018

    good vibes lol one of the best place of the Roseau river was under power

  4. River Street
    March 13, 2018

    Wonderful read Arlington. Many of us who grew up in River Street River banks and Roseau River environs, have come to know and love our river. As youngsters,we made the best of it. Your article is enlightening, educating and refreshing. Looking forward to the additional parts.

  5. March 13, 2018

    For once we have something of Love to read about our Dominica. Thanks to you Mr. Jasmes, the photo’s are breathtaking, one more to ask: “Why oh why Maria”

  6. Fr. Franklyn Cuffy, C.Ss.R.
    March 13, 2018

    Thank you Mr. Arlington James for Part 1 of 3. This is very interesting reading on the eve of “World Water Day, carded for March 22. I am looking forward to parts 2 and 3.
    Hurricane Maria has created a “Love /hate relationship with our Rivers so I have no doubt that in this Reunion Year articles like yours will go a long way in helping us appreciate and love our Rivers even more.. I understand that DOWASCO will be having a number of activities for World Water Day . While the Communities around the Hampstead River will be observing the DAY with a Water Blessing Ceremony on Sunday March 25, 2018.
    All this augurs well as preparation gets on the way for the 13th. Anniversary of “WORLD RIVERS DAY” carded for the last Sunday in September (30), as designated by the United Nations

  7. Watching
    March 13, 2018

    Enjoyed reading your article pertaining to the Roseau River. Job well done!

  8. March 13, 2018

    I have been 39 years in Dominica, so i was glad to read thgis story of our rivers.

    Thank you

    Sr Mariette icm

  9. March 13, 2018

    This is a very good artlicle, Something we can learn about our rivers.

    Congratulations!

  10. Sanina
    March 13, 2018

    Nice way to show how the river connects the various areas and providing sustainance to many, while unfortunately, also is responsible for destruction Mr. James. I coouldn’t help thinking about my past experiences involving the Roseau river. Nost

  11. Sanina
    March 13, 2018

    Before calling people ignorant and suggesting that they be dragged to a library, edit your comment before posting it. Look who appears to be ignorant now. Don’t just comment for commenting sake.

    • LOL
      March 13, 2018

      No Sadines in Roseau Sanina u must be west Virginia lol what edit u talking about.You tink is a book the person writing

      • Sanina
        March 13, 2018

        Nope. I am not West Virginia. You don’t have to be writing a book to write properly when you want to criticize. When you want to educate you should write flawlessly. On that note, good riddance.

  12. Sisserou
    March 13, 2018

    Excellent article. I was born and raised in Roseau. This article brought a smile to my face and vivid memories of my childhood 50 plus years ago including, unfortunately, using the river as my toilet.

  13. Pondering
    March 13, 2018

    YesI. Very interesting piece of writing. It reminded me of my days in the seventies and early eighties. This was my back yard. Spending hours in the river. Gettting black. Lol. Those weres the days!

  14. Suggesting the education or re-education of #1
    March 13, 2018

    Life & death can you ind out who#1is an take him to the Library get hima cardand drag him along daily.Mon-Sat so you can be fuctional in his education or re=education. S’il vous plait. Thx.

  15. Anthony P. Ismael Minister of Free Pampers
    March 13, 2018

    Great read Arlington.

  16. Believer
    March 13, 2018

    Very good article Mr. James…rich in history, education, geography and memories of
    this great waterway.

  17. #One
    March 13, 2018

    So what’s your point, Mr. James??

    • Dora
      March 13, 2018

      I know…really..!! :)

      • Amarossa
        March 14, 2018

        I don’t expect it to have a point for ppl like you and the one you endorsed above. Only political roro that gets your juices flowing.

    • Suggesting the education or re-education of #1
      March 13, 2018

      Numero1/#1 you are like# 999 man you doh know nada niet rien ignorant on history geography poor ting.
      Suggestion re:read the article x 999. you demonstrated ur ignorance in a previous article onKick em Jenny.
      You need a little education.

    • Suggesting the education or re-education of #1
      March 13, 2018

      Dotish, too young to know anything, ignorant, need to learn ask 4 help what will u teach ur kids,are u a dad? lol poor #1 From today return your PC too dump to have been sold on.

  18. LifeandDeath
    March 13, 2018

    Appreciate this read..looking forward to part II, anticipating the roaring rage of this same River..

  19. West Virginia
    March 13, 2018

    No thats the fresh water lake/

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